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Breakin all the rules

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  • Breakin all the rules

    Hello Everyone!

    My name is Riddleme, but a lot of folks call me Riddle, Rid or RM3. I have been growing this plant for a lot of years and I have helped folks on the web since 2009. I have posted on several forums so you may have seen my stuff or possibly heard of me. I follow NONE of the stuff taught online and pretty much break all the "rules" of growing. What do I mean? Well things like having the lights close, or Flushing at the end, Bloom nutes, hang drying, amber is bad, light leaks, carbon filters, list goes on and on,and despite it all I grow (and breed) some pretty dank weed.

    I use T5 HO lights for both veg and flower, I have never owned a carbon scrubber because my garden never stinks unless there is something wrong and that is very rare. My garden is a 5 X 5 area with 1000 watts (16 bulbs) of T5 mixed spectrum lighting in a fully open 500 sq ft room (basement) I use Chem nutes from JR Peters, Jack's Citrus FeED and Jack's AquaGold and DynaGro's ProtK (silica) for Cal/Mag I use gypsum and Epsom (Calcium Sulfate & Magnesium Sulfate) instead of flushing at the end I hit em with Potassium Sulfate.

    You might ask why all these sulfates? Because the secret ingredient to more potent herb is SULFUR !!! The Citrus FeED has 4.9% sulfur and the AquaGold has 9% sulfur. Another reason for the sulfur is it helps bring out a rare genetic condition that makes early amber trics which is something I breed for, I have several strains that do it and I have brought out early amber in many off the shelf strains such as Durban Poison and Pineapple Express. If the genetics are there, I can bring em out. Which leads me to light timing, I never use 12/12, my flower area is on 11:20/12:40 I have over the years learned that different light timings bring out different genetic features in most all hybrids. Famous breeder DJ Short agrees on different light timings if you have read any of his books then you know this.

    For medium, I use peat (sunshine mix #4) mixed 50/50 with calcined clay (turface or kitty liter) you can Google Al Tapla's gritty mix (it's a regular garden thing) I take my clones in the first 21 days of flower (monster cropping) I never keep moms, and I prefer 3 ~ 4 ft tall plants in 2 gallon pots, though I have used others as I tend to breed in 1/2 gallon pots (more plants per area)

    let me share a few pics with you, I call my set up the Tanning Booth and these were taken before I added several different bulbs (will share current pics in a bit)
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  • #2
    Here are pics of the harvest from that grow ,,,,,

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    • #3
      As for the amber thing here are pics of my strain Colorado Thunderfuck 1st pic was taken in week 5 of flower, 2nd pic was week 8 (it's a 10 week strain)

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      • #4
        This plant is a Durban Poison currently growing in my garden, it just finished week 6 of flower, gettin lots o amber
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        • #5
          When I started messin with various different bulbs I found combos that rock Here is a pic of what the Tanning Booth looks like today. The white lookin bulbs are GE 4100K they have peaks in the red & blue right where plants want em, the deep blue bulbs are ATI Coral Plus and the Black Lights are ATI True Actinics With the ATI bulbs I get deep Blue (known to increase tric growth) and UVB (known to increase potency)

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          • #6
            The plants in that last pic got harvested this last weekend, I water em with boiling water then set em on the floor for a several weeks, I call it brown bushin

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            • #7
              In that last pic you see a plant on the far right that has been there for several weeks, it is almost done, here are some pics of it up close

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              • #8
                And I'll leave ya with my garden as of today, this is gonna be a new breeding project,

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                • #9
                  Please feel free to ask questions and enjoy !!!

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the slide-show and info! It was awesome! Mega Nute

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                    • #11
                      Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me more about pouring boiling water on plants about to be harvested? Thanks, Mega Nute

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                      • #12
                        Hi Rid. Welcome to the forum. Great post. Lots of really interesting points raised. I like people who mess with convention, especially with such demonstrable results.
                        So are you saying that the early amber is purely a result of the high Sulphur?
                        Also, you mentioned lack of smell, is that just the strains you use? I've grown plenty of weed that doesn't smell too much, but some strains, like the Cheeses for example,have been stinkers wherever I've seen them grown.
                        Look forward to seeing more of your stuff.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mega nute View Post
                          Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me more about pouring boiling water on plants about to be harvested? Thanks, Mega Nute
                          Pretty much everything I do though against forum rhetoric, is based in science. Many years ago I wrote a ditty called the Truth about Flushing that described the process (if you Google it it comes up) but I'm told some of the research links in it are dead now? The basic premise is that all plants when deprived of Oxygen in the root zone (think heavy rain & flash flooding) will go into a mode of fermenting sugars into alcohol in order to survive. I recently answered this in another forum so gonna cut & paste that answer here ,,,,

                          Though some would argue, IMO curing is a term to describe a process that we do to reach a desired result. Fermentation on the other hand is is a process that occurs naturally if the right conditions are met. Like most things cannabis related these terms are often misused a tad and IMO not fully understood by most.

                          Any plant (not just MJ) will turn sugars into alcohol to survive if it is oxygen deprived, we take advantage of this when we boil the roots thus killing the source of O2 to the plant
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                          Fermentation is strictly defined as any way of anaerobically degrade pyruvic acid and recycle NAD+ to keep glycolysis going. You can then categorize this process as lactic acid fermentation (where pyruvate accepts electrons from NADH directly and becomes lactate), alcoholic fermentation (where pyruvate is first decarboxylated to acetaldehyde which then accepts electrons from NADH to become ethanol) and others (which are much more obscure). So technically, human cells are able to carry out lactic acid fermentation. Liver cells also have the enzyme alcohol dehydrogenase (responsible for ethanol formation in yeast and other fungi), but we use it in the reverse direction so to speak to get rid of any alcohol which we consume by converting it to pyruvate.
                          Plants however, can carry out alcoholic fermentation. They don't normally do it, because plants are usually in contact with oxygen. However, if you flood the root of a plant for about a week the cells are starved of oxygen, and because of this they will start carrying out alcoholic fermentation to survive.


                          When a grower cuts and hangs (air dries) their plants most of this natural process is killed/halted and even more so if they trim before hanging as the process requires N to be fully realized and the plant will pull that N from the leaves where it stored it. This is another reason why it is wrong to flush at the end or use bloom nutes exclusively denying the plant the N it needs to properly carry out this process and a simple Google "fermentation in plants" will result in a lot of scientific results explaining all of the many various plant responses.

                          If you wanna really get into it,,, read this

                          http://www.sivabio.50webs.com/plastids.htm
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                          • #14
                            Welcome Rid!

                            Some fine growing going on there, that's for sure. Really enjoyed your photos, Thanks for sharing with us. Real nice results too. Good stuff.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Schmokin View Post
                              Hi Rid. Welcome to the forum. Great post. Lots of really interesting points raised. I like people who mess with convention, especially with such demonstrable results.
                              So are you saying that the early amber is purely a result of the high Sulphur?
                              Also, you mentioned lack of smell, is that just the strains you use? I've grown plenty of weed that doesn't smell too much, but some strains, like the Cheeses for example,have been stinkers wherever I've seen them grown.
                              Look forward to seeing more of your stuff.
                              Thank you, tis rare for me to not get slammed in forums. The early amber is a rare genetic trait associated with high potency Sativa's, bringing it out requires giving it an environment that simulates where it grew naturally, so you need UVB, reduced light timings that mimic the sun at the equator and available sulfur (sulfates are instantly available and don't radically change the PH) also very hard to reach a point of sulfur toxicity.

                              As for smell, I have grown many strains and have bred more than 20, I have 5 strains that make the early amber and 2 of those tested at 25% THC. They give off smells to communicate, and to warn other plants of danger and to defend themselves against attacks from predators. Basically they stink when they are unhappy which can be caused by many things but mostly it is the concept of sealed grow rooms in an indoor garden that deny the plants access to natural barometric pressure, can't tell you how many growers have opened the flaps of their tents and reported that the smell stopped. I am very anal at creating and maintaining a perfect environment for them which is why I get the results I do. Most growers believe more light is the answer,,,it's not. It is the sum of all parts of the garden that create a great grow. Most growers fight heat, I embrace it and use it as a tool. I have convinced several growers to remove cool tubes and raise the lights and yeppers, it always increases their yield.

                              I do admit I have not grown a cheese strain (not my thing) but I have grown several skunk strains that never smelled. As a breeder I have many land race strains, Durban, Dallat, Zamal, Komaoni. Hell I even have seeds from the Mexican land race that Neville used to create Nevilles Haze. Honestly most would kill for some of the seeds I have LOL I have Romulans (gifted from Joe himself) I have the original Romberry and the Blueberry used to make it (from DJ Short) I also have several land race Indicas, Afghan, Pakistani, Lebanese, In that last pic showing my upcoming breeding project I have over 20 strains that I intend to Thunderfuck LOL some are my own Amethyst, Holy Diver, Thunder Express, Namaste, some are popular a few Bodhi strains Snow Queen & the Fuzz, Mr Nice's Ash, There is a GDP (grandaddy purple) a mango, a Northern Lights #1, a Maui wowi, a cole train, a wappa, a G13 X hash plant, That Durban I pictured at 6 weeks is preggo which will make Durban Thunder.

                              Back to amber, if you get a strain that does it, you look for the trics to turn red for harvest I'll post a pic that shows it, the courtesy link in the pic goes to a site of mine that explains it in detail (not here to pimp the site)

                              and thanks for the questions and warm welcome, I love questions !!!
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