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  • #31
    Hi Dommy,
    First off Welcome to htgm. Second here is a link to help you with Autos https://howtogrowmarijuana.com/auto-f...annabis-seeds/ Hope this helps you out. I think kbag had posted about Auto's a few days ago with a basic guide but I am not sure lol I was pretty blazed that day but if this link don't help cruise around the forums there is a lot of good information. Also with autos its good to do a 20/4 or 18/6 light cycle because it allows your plant to rest. Here's some more information. ~~
    ~~For the first few weeks, autos only make vegetative growth - stems and leaves. After their short “vegetative stage” ends, the plant will start making buds.After a 1-1.5 months or so, most auto-flowering plants will stop growing “up and out” and will no longer make new stems or leaves, instead all energy until harvest will be spent only be fattening and ripening buds. Because of their short vegetative stage and lifespan, auto-flowering strains tend to stay relatively short no matter what the grower does, and are ready for harvest sooner than most traditional cannabis strains.

    ~As with photoperiod sensitive plants, using a blue / white fluorescent or metal halide lamp in the first 3 weeks will encourage vegetative growth and give your plants a solid structure to flower on. You could change to a HPS lamp in the red spectrum once you begin to see bud development.

    Autos generally are ready to harvest sooner than photoperiod. Most autos are ready to harvest 65-75 days after being sprouted from seed. Some "super autos" have been bred to grow very big and can take up to 100 days before harvest, though nearly all autos are ready to harvest in under 13 weeks (91 days).

    Autos, when taken care of throughout their life, generally yield up to about 4 ounces of bud per plant.
    Many growers end up yielding 1-2 ounces per auto for their first grow. Very small plants (such as the original Lowryder, or any auto plants which run into major growing problems) can produce a half ounce or even less~~In some cases, growers with a lot of experience, great starting genetics and perfect conditions can yield up to 6 ounces per plant or more.

    Auto-flowering strains automatically starts flowering (making buds) after 3 weeks, a time period dependent on the specific strain. You cannot change this, autos will automatically start flowering after about 3 weeks due to an internal countdown
    After they start making buds (flowering), they will stay in the flowering stage until harvest time. Harvest is usually 2-3 months from seed and depends almost completely on the strain. There is not much a grower can do to alter this internal "time-clock."

    Therefore with auto-flowering plants, there is no special light schedule needed. The grower does not need periods of darkness (or any special light schedule) to initiate the flowering stage and get plants to bud properly.

    Once an auto-flowering cannabis seed has sprouted, the countdown has started! The plant is on a specific internal schedule until harvest time, and light schedules will not slow or speed up this process.
    One advantage of this internal time clock is that auto-flowering strains can be grown outdoor in city environment where the ambient light at night may be too bright to prevent photoperiod plants from budding. Autos don't care if they're exposed to light at night.
    Note: The auto-flowering internal clock is why it's recommended to never take clones from auto-flowering strains - clones will be on the same time clock as their mother, and therefore clones will die when she dies.

    Autos should not be exposed to plant training methods that involve cutting the plant (topping, FIMing, main-lining, etc) as the auto flowering vegetative stage is too short and plants won’t have enough time to recover before they begin flowering.
    It is important you avoid doing any type of damage to auto-flowering plants during their grow because the vegetative stage of auto plants only lasts a few weeks and plants don’t have time to recover from problems. Hope this information helps also a little googling autos will help with information as well as posting here. there is a lot of great people and growers on this site that will help you out.
    Last edited by DarkLotus760; 10-25-2014, 04:25 AM.

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    • #32
      Hey Dark Lotus760, for some reason I can not answer your private message as I tried several times, sorry pal. Mega

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      • #33
        Its ok Mega looks like someone already took care of that spammer.

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        • #34
          Hello everyone! Call me Kobau from Malaysia. I'm glad to be a part of this site. I've found tons of useful information in these forums and finally decided to become a member. I'm sure I'll go on to learn lots more here, and I appreciate all of you for providing free knowledge to me as a newbie grower. Gonna start soon, buy seeds from seedsman.com. Master Kush, Jack Herer, SS Haze, Free OG Kush and Big Bang, all feminized.

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          • #35
            I grow using a tent as well and have gotten pretty decent at it. You have the right size tent for a 400 watt light. Your biggest issue is going to be heat. I live in the PNW, and this is my method. In the winter I pull air into the tent from outside using a 4" 205 CFM fan. I duct off the front of it and blow the cool air across the bulb. I have the intake impeded with a cap that has holes drilled into it to give the negative airflow for when it gets real stinky. Then I have the same size fan Hooked with a 12" carbon filter taking the hot air into the house, helping with the heat. I get NO smell from the tent. In the summer I switch them so that hot air blows outside and the intake uses the cool inside air. You only have 56 cubic feet, at the rate you will be exchanging the air 3 times per minute with the impeded intake. More than enough. With that said, just use a wing, not an enclosed hood because your air exchange rate should be so good that you don't need the hood. For a couple more reasons. 1. You lose 13% of your lumens in the glass. 2. You will have to run a third fan. Don't make the mistake of running your outake over the bulb. There will be humidity in the tent and you don't want to blow that over your light. Condensation will blow your bulb. So you will run a fan that pulls outside air across the bulb and back out the tent, and two for exchange. Next, make sure that you are constantly checking your bulb height. There is a ton of reflection in there and it gets real warm between the light and the top of your plants. 24" is what works for me. You're a little tighter so you may have to be higher than that. If the back of your hand is warm when you put it on top of them, it's too close. When all is said and done, you want to operate between no cooler than 55 in their dark cycle, and optimal is 75-79 in the light cycle but 85 is acceptable. If you can get it down that cool you'll get some awesome purples in the stems when they are young that will push into the buds. Purple is fun. Anyways I hope all this helps. Any other questions let me know. Happy growing.

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            • #36
              The photo above is an example of what not to do. That's a real popular mistake for a tent. Especially that small.

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